Friday, May 8, 2026

Art Nouveau -- Vienna #1


Something impractical cannot be beautiful.

                                               Otto Wagner



Vienna. Where to start? The city is an open-air museum. I took so many photos, yet I hardly scratched the surface. I've decided to post more than a single photo essay, each one featuring an element of the city I find compelling. Of course, it will be far from complete, and perhaps amatueris -- though at least I didn't shoot thesm on a phone.

Vienna is set up for tourism, so there are lots of websites to visit if you want something more polished and less personal and serendipitous.



These contemporary works are from inside the Secession Museum. 


Below are more images of the exterior of Olbrich's Seccesion museum.



Here's an informative link to Joseph Olbrich: https://www.britannica.com/biography/Joseph-Olbrich




An ad below for the Belvedere Museum which features some of Klimt's masterpieces: https://www.belvedere.at/en/press/klimt-collection-belvedere.




From Britannica online https://www.britannica.com/art/Art-Nouveau:

The Vienna Secession was a group of progressive artists who broke away from established organizations in Austria and Germany. Formed in Vienna in 1897 by Gustav Klimt, this movement favored a highly ornamental Art Nouveau style, rejecting prevailing academic traditions.

The Secession Building, completed in 1898, is an icon of this anti-traditionalist group. Designed by Joseph Olbrich, with fellow Secessionists like Klimt, Otto Wagner, and Josef Hoffman, they aimed to create a new style free from historical influence. The building's motto, "To Every Age, Its Art. To Every Art, Its Freedom," encapsulates their revolutionary spirit. Klimt's work, such as "The Kiss" and the Beethoven Frieze, are notable examples of the movement's output.






More from Britannica https://www.britannica.com/art/Art-Nouveau-- this about Josef Hoffmann

Josef Hoffmann (born December 15, 1870, Pirnitz, Moravia [now in Czech Republic] died May 7, 1956, Vienna, Austria. He was a German architect whose work was important in the early development of modern architecture in Europe.

Hoffman studied under Otto Wagner in Vienna and in 1899 joined in the founding of the Vienna Sezession, which, although influenced by the Art Nouveau movement, was more modernist than Wagner’s approach. Beginning in 1899 he taught at the School of Applied Arts, Vienna, and participated (1903) in the establishment of the Vienna Workshop, a centre for arts and crafts, which he directed for some 30 years.




I shot these Secession poster images inside the Leopold Museum. https://www.leopoldmuseum.org/en/collection/gustav-klimt

There is no shortage of outstanding museums in Vienna.





This is from The Art Story online https://www.theartstory.org/movement/art-nouveau/:

The advent of Art Nouveau - literally "New Art" - can be traced to two distinct influences: the first was the introduction, around 1880, of the British Arts and Crafts movement, which, much like Art Nouveau, was a reaction against the cluttered designs and compositions of Victorian-era decorative art. The second was the current vogue for Japanese art, particularly wood-block prints, that swept up many European artists in the 1880s and 90s, including the likes of Gustav Klimt, Emile Gallé, and James Abbott McNeill Whistler. Japanese wood-block prints in particular contained floral and bulbous forms, and "whiplash" curves, all key elements of what would eventually become Art Nouveau.

It is difficult to pinpoint the first work(s) of art that officially launched Art Nouveau. Some argue that the patterned, flowing lines and floral backgrounds found in the paintings of Vincent van Gogh and Paul Gauguin represent Art Nouveau's birth, or perhaps even the decorative lithographs of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, such as Moulin Rouge: La Goulue (1891). But most point to the origins in the decorative arts, and in particular to a book jacket by English architect and designer Arthur Heygate Mackmurdo for the 1883 volume Wren's City Churches. The design depicts serpentine stalks of flowers emanating from one flattened pad at the bottom of the page, clearly reminiscent of Japanese-style wood-block prints.



In Vienna - home to Gustav Klimt, Otto Wagner, Josef Hoffmann and the other founders of the Vienna Secession - it was known as Sezessionsstil (Secession Style). It was also known as Modernismo in Spanish, Modernisme in Catalan, and Stile Floreale (floral style) or Stile Liberty in Italy (the latter after Arthur Liberty's fabric shop in London, which helped popularize the style). In France it was commonly called Modern(e)-Style and occasionally Style Guimard after its most famous practitioner there, the architect Hector Guimard, and in the Netherlands it was usually called Nieuwe Kunst (New Art). Its numerous detractors also gave it several derogatory names: Style Nouille (noodle style) in France, Paling Stijl (eel style) in Belgium, and Bandwurmstil (tapeworm style) in Germany - all names which made playful reference to Art Nouveau's tendency to employ sinuous and flowing lines.


Art Nouveau painters were few and far between: Klimt counted virtually no students or followers (Egon Schiele went in the direction of Expressionism), and ProuvĂ© is known equally well as a sculptor and furniture designer. Instead, Art Nouveau was arguably responsible, more than any style in history, for narrowing the gap between the decorative or applied arts (to utilitarian objects) and the fine or purely ornamental arts of painting, sculpture, and architecture, which traditionally had been considered more important, purer expressions of artistic talent and skill. 























The Otto Wagner Pavillion at Karlsplatz (from Visiting Vienna https://www.visitingvienna.com/footsteps/otto-wagner-in-vienna/ )


Wagner took the position of chief artistic director for the Stadtbahn, a collection of urban railway lines planned and constructed at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. The project, intended to serve a growing and flourishing city, eventually foundered on multiple rocks…notably WWI, the subsequent break up of Austria-Hungary, and the economic problems that followed. The Stadtbahn routes find their modern expression within what are now the U6 subway line, the U4 subway line, and the S45 city train line. Wagner designed the new Jugendstil station buildings, bridges, etc. along the Stadtbahn. You can still see many in more or less their original condition.

 




For me, no details is without its own 
seductive sense of motion and fludity.


As 19th-century Vienna anticipated growing ever bigger and more important, the authorities decided it was high time to build a modern metropolitan railway to allow mass transit and link up the rail routes into the city.

Still, the late 1890s saw the opening of various “Stadtbahn” city rail lines. Otto Wagner designed the new stations, bridges, railings, etc., and many of these buildings and structures remain in use today in all their renovated Jugendstil glory.











As a son of the city, an architect, a professor, a proponent of Viennese modernism, and an urban planner, Otto Wagner (1841 – 1918) had a major impact both literally and figuratively on the landscape of Vienna. Wagner certainly helped drag Viennese architecture and design away from historical styles and into the modern era and beyond, combining aesthetics with usefulness in his many building projects.

The huge building at Georg-Coch-Platz 2 counts as one of the most famous examples of the Viennese modernist movement, with its marble and metal façade. Wagner also designed the furniture and fittings inside this Postsparkasse to ensure a common design approach.


Two images of the Postal Savings Bank building.




I shot this building pictured below when I learned it was designed by Wagner. It's on the Danube. However, unfortunately, I never learned its name. 
 











Crossings, a Basil Rosa essay published in Front Porch Republic, April 2026

  


A big thank you to editor Jeffrey Bilbro for publishing on April 29, 2026 in The Barbershop section of Front Poreh Republic, the Basil Rosa essay, Crossings

You can find the essay here: https://www.frontporchrepublic.com/2026/04/crossings/

This is a link to The Barbershop section: https://www.frontporchrepublic.com/section/the-barbershop/

And this link will explain all you need to know about the mission of Front Porch Republic: https://www.frontporchrepublic.com/about/



You can find Jeffrey Bilbro, pictured above, here. https://jeffbilbro.com/  He is a professor of English at Grove City College. His site includes links to his books, his CV, his poetry and essays. 

You can find Jeffrey here at Plough, as well: https://www.plough.com/en/authors/b/jeffrey-bilbro


Monday, December 29, 2025

Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower) And Environs, Istanbul, A Photo Essay

 



All answers to the usual quetions can be found here: https://www.galata-tower.com/faqs







I've been many times, but I went for the first time during the winter on a cold day. There were plenty of visitors from all over the world. 

There's also a lift for those who can't climb the steps inside, all 146 of them, a total of 11 floors. 




This artist's rendition of the tower -- rendered, I believe, in brass -- hangs inside the tower and can be viewed there. A restaurant and cafe are in the tower, as well.

There are many useful websites and blogs to consult before you visit: https://galatatower.gen.tr/inside/


If visiting on foot, one must climb the neighborhood's stairs to get to the tower, as so many have over the centuries. 






The tower stands at 66.90 meters, or nearly 220 feet. Thoughout the era of Emperor Constantine, it was the tallest structure in the city's skyline. Learn more here: https://istanbultravelblog.com/




Built in 1348 by Genoese, it served as a lookout for protecting the city from invasions. It also served as a way to monitor ships and collect duries from them as they passed through the Bosphorous Strait. 




I'm taking you around the tower in a circle from the viewing deck.






Above, the Hagia Sophia, and the Blue Mosque.






Now back on the ground, checking out some details from a few of the sometimes hilly streets nearby.







If it's tidbits of history on back streets you're after, willing to stumble across them, you needn't look far. This is the case in Istanbul's old neighborhoods, and just about everywhere else in Turkey. 




There are many nice modern touches, as well.











Tamam = Okay.

Hadi gidelim = Let's go.



Still in the Galata neighborhood, just at the bottom of the hill.






I'm on foot checking out the graffiti. 


There are lots of examples. To call this something of a bohemain quarter is an understatement.




But there are shops too, many of them selling bespoke handmade goods.





And some selling the usual stuff.




And some expressing in English their attitude toward the daily grind.












Residents going about their business.





A note about public shoeshine men or boys (they are never women). If you're wearing leather shoes, whether you're a man or woman. and the shoeshine man is seated and spots you, be prepared to converse. He will ask and he'll be assertive. This is the old-fashioned way. Turkish men are not shy about trying to earn their living from tourists. 

If the shoeshine man is walking, since many of them carry their kit and stool from street to street, and he drops his brush, again be prepared. This means he's targeted you and he'll put on a charm offensive to land you as his customer. 

He won't relent easily. Some of these gents can be very persuasive and assertive. 

So, if you don't want to be confronted in this way, just ignore any shoeshine man who drops a brush or one of his tools. Don't be naive. These gents are street-smart and can spot a tourist a mile away.

They're also generally decent. So, if you're polite to them, and insistent, you'll likely work out an arrangement that suits you both. Otherwise, be prepared to pay the tourist price and get yourself a first-class shoe shine. It's a hard living for these gents. It's also a chance for you to practice your Turkish.









For what it's worth, Kamayor is the 5,057,639th most common surname in the world. The name is above the doorway to an old house that once was home to a family that was most likely quite wealthy.



Portakal (Orange) Street. 



These street corner fountains are seen commonly in both cities and towns. A place to drink, to rest, to chat, to bathe one's hands or feet.  




Ev Yemekleri = home-cooked food.




A tea house. 
















Out Go The Lamps a novel by John Michael Flynn

  Wisconsin native Albert Kellner, a former high school literature teacher forced into retirement due to complete loss of sight in one eye, ...